AMT-Ertl's kit is covered with a series of raised outlines for the windows which are oversize as well as in the wrong positions. They were all sanded off. Correct windows would be applied as decals after painting.

   Before painting, all illuminated domes and pre-painted areas like the sensor dish and platform were masked off with masking tape and Parafilm "M" laboratory film (Fine Scale Modeler, Feb. 1993), the model was primed with Bond-Tite gray primer. When dry, the rear engine caps, impulse engines and other details that would remain medium gray were masked off.

    One specific thing I can confidently tell you about the actual color of the paint originally used on the studio model, is that it was some kind of color of paint. Information about the exact paint and color used varies from source to source. I read an article by "someone who knew someone" who said that it was GM auto primer. I also heard from a "foremost authority" that it could only have been Chrysler truck primer. Another foremost authority disclosed that it was, without question Ford auto primer.

   To match the studio model's color from the photographs I took at the Smithsonian, I chose to use colors from Tamiya's line of acrylic hobby paints with a full half-ounce jar of gloss white as a starting point. By the time I finished mixing, this is what I'd used:
 

White (X-2)........................2 jars
Chrome Silver (X-11).......1/2 jar
Metallic Grey (XF-56).....4 drops
Smoke (X-19)...................1/2 jar
Black (X-1).......................1/4 jar
Clear Blue (X-23).............1/2 jar

    The above list clearly shows that the process of matching the color had gotten away from me. By the time I had finished mixing, I had enough paint to cover the 11-foot studio model. And, yes, I was serious about those 4 drops of Metallic Grey.

   Being experienced enough to know better but thinking I could get away with it, I thinned the entire batch of the color for airbrushing, greatly shortening the mix's shelf-life. If it became necessary to re-mix the identical color some time after completion of the model, I would be in big trouble. Still, I thought it was a good match for the big model's color in the photos I had and I decided to go with it.
 

    Using a Badger 350 mini spray gun, the model was given several fast, heavy coats of my special blend of colors. I laid down three coats over the entire model in two hours. This Enterprise remained un-weathered, just as I'd seen it in the Smithsonian. The model was then sprayed with Tamiya Clear to prep for decals. 

   I was pretty satisfied that I got the color right, or at least very close to the color in my photos. The only disappointment was that I had hoped the metallic colors in the mix would show even a tiny bit and give the surface a just barely perceptable sparkle. Instead, the metallics don't show at all. I would eventually find out why and it wouldn't be pretty.


 
    For most of the kit's run, AMT-Ertl provided a decal sheet with incorrect letters and numbers in the typeface commonly known to Windows users as "MachineBT." I decided to use decals from the Estes Rockets flying Enterprise kit  instead. These decals used the correct font, a very slight variation on the "Amarillo USAF" typeface which is commonly used on US military vessels, aircraft and even NASA spacecraft.

   The differences are illustrated at left. Also included is the font "Microgramma," shown here because it was used in Franz Joseph's STAR TREK BLUEPRINTS and many other drawings. This font does appear on some spacecraft in the Star Trek movies featuring the original cast and was used by Ed Dietrich for his U.S.S Lucifer shown in Chapter 1.
 

   Early runs of the AMT kit included a decal sheet with the markings in straight-up Amarillo USAF. For a good look at both the original decal sheet and the later one, see page 3 of Jay Chladek's article.
    Some markings, such as the triangles on the saucer bottom and the mysterious, not-seen-on-TV shapes on the secondary hull bottom were airbrushed onto clear decal film before being applied to the model to help avoid positioning problems. Little numbers on the side of the hull were made from 1/4" dry transfers reduced to 1/32" on a copy machine (this was 1991; computers and printers had not hit the mainstream yet) directly onto decal film. New engine pylon grids were made by making an oversize master with Letraset diamond grid screen, reducing it down and copying that onto decal film.


    I made window decals by burnishing sections of Woodland Scenics white and black dry-transfer striping (1/32") onto decal film and applied that to the model for windows with sharp edges and corners. I used photos of the TV model and drawings in SHIPS of the STAR FLEET as a placement guide for the windows and markings on the starboard (passenger) side of the model. Since the TV model was filmed from that side only, the port (driver's) side was devoid of any windows or markings. I used my imagination (gasp!) for the window placement on that side of my model. The grooves that were filled in on the engines and hangar deck were replaced with 1/64" dry-transfer stripes on decal film.
    The photo to the left shows the starboard side of the Secondary Hull after decals were applied. Shown are the recessed main sensor side supports with the red and yellow Starfleet pennant. Included in Estes' decal, forward of the pennant is a striped marking that was later found to be a raised surface feature on the studio model (arrow). This was missing from the model when I visited the Smithsonian in 1989.
   By the time I started painting and marking the model, it was already the 21st of March, 1991. A local model show was approaching on March 23rd and I was determined to get the model finished in time.

    Big mistake.

    To save time and effort, I decided to overcoat the model and decals with Krylon Crystal Clear and finally Krylon Matte Finish rather than Tamaya Clear which I used before applying the decals. The result was a lesson learned.

on to chapter 5:
FIRST LOOK


intro
chapter 1
chapter 2
chapter 3
chapter 4
chapter 5
chapter 6
chapter 7
chapter 8
chapter 9
chapter 10

TUTORIALS AND KIT REVIEWS