ALANOODLE'S SCALE MODEL PORTFOLIO

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Chapter 4: PAINT, DECALS AND OTHER FUN STUFF

part 1:
PAINTING 1: HOW NOT TO PAINT A MODEL
 
 

New sensor dish and mount prior to placement in the secondary hull front cover.

Perhaps, at this point, it's important to mention that it was the middle of 1990 and the Enterprise studio model had been untouched since its restoration in the 1970s. Aside from the windows, the only markings on the model were the Starfleet markings and the strange shapes on the bottom of the secondary hull. There were no grid lines and there was no weathering visible, nor was there was any variation of color to be found. This was the Enterprise I chose to model.     AMT-Ertl's kit is covered with a series of raised outlines for the windows which are oversize as well as in the wrong positions. They were all sanded off. Correct windows would be applied as decals after painting.     The sensor dish and platform were airbrushed with Tamiya copper before assembly and masked prior to painting the rest of the model (left). After all illuminated domes were masked off with masking tape and Parafilm "M" laboratory film (FSM, Feb. 1993), the model was primed with Bond-Tite gray primer. When dry, the rear engine caps, impulse engines, and other details that would remain medium gray were then masked.

    One specific thing I can confidently tell you about the paint originally used on the studio model, is that it was some kind of automotive primer. Specifically, I've read that it was GM auto primer. I've also heard that it was Chrysler truck primer. I've also been told that it was definitely Ford auto primer. In my quest to match the studio model's color from photographs, I chose to use colors from Tamiya's line of acrylic hobby paints using a full jar of gloss white as a starting point. When I was satisfied with the match, the breakdown of the color mix was as follows:

    It's not hard to imagine from the above list, that the process of matching color had gotten away from me early on. By the time I had finished mixing, I had enough paint to cover the 11-foot studio model. It was also apparent, at this point, that if it became necessary to re-mix the identical color some time after completion of the model, I would be in big trouble. The color that resulted from the above "recipe," however was a good match for the big model's color in photos and I decided to go with it.

part 2:
DECALS AND MARKINGS or "I'M A DOCTOR, NOT A TYPESETTER!"

AMT-Ertl provides a decal sheet with incorrect letters and numbers in the typeface commonly known to Windows users as "MachineBT." Decals from the Estes flying Enterprise kit were used instead. These decals used the correct font, a very slight variation on the "Amarillo USAF" typeface, probably selected by Gene Roddenberry for being the typeface used on many US Naval vessels and aircraft. (The model was first released with the markings in straight-up Amarillo USAF. For a good look at both the original decal sheet and the later one, see Jay Chladek's article.) The differences are illustrated at left. Also included is the font "Microgramma," shown here because it was used in Franz Joseph's STARFLEET TECHNICAL MANUAL. A modified version of this font named "Starfleet Bold" was eventually used for for all Star Trek Federation starships in Star Trek: the Motion Picture and all TV and film incarnations after. (Trekkie lore implies that the standard form of Microgramma was used on Federation starships between the time periods of the original series and the movies, but it was never seen on either the big or little screens.)

Some markings, such as the triangles on the saucer bottom and the mysterious, not-seen-on-TV shapes on the secondary hull bottom were airbrushed onto clear decal film and then applied to the model to help avoid positioning problems. Little numbers on the side of the hull were made from 1/4" dry transfers reduced to 1/32" on a copy machine (this was 1991; computers and printers had not hit the mainstream yet) directly onto decal film. New engine pylon grids were made by making an oversize master with Letraset diamond grid screen, reducing it down and copying that onto decal film.

    I made window decals by burnishing sections of Woodland Scenics white and black dry-transfer striping (1/32") onto decal film and applied that to the model for windows with sharp edges and corners. I used photos of the TV model and drawings in SHIPS of the STAR FLEET as a placement guide for the windows and markings on the starboard (passenger) side of the model. Since the TV model was filmed from that side only, the port (driver's) side was devoid of any windows or markings. I used my imagination (gasp!) for the window placement on that side of my model. The grooves that were filled in on the engines and hangar deck were replaced with 1/64" dry-transfer stripes on decal film.

The photo to the left shows the starboard side of the Secondary Hull after decals were applied. Shown are the recessed main sensor side supports with the red and yellow Starfleet pennant. Also visible, forward of the pennant, is a striped marking that was later found to be a raised surface feature on the actual studio model (arrow). This was actually missing from the model when I visited the Smithsonian in 1989.

   By the time I started painting and marking the model, it was already the 21st of March, 1991. A local model show was approaching on March 23rd. I was hoping to get the model finished in time.

    Big mistake.

    To save time and effort, the decision was made to overcoat the model and decals with Krylon Crystal Clear and finally, Krylon Matte Finish. The result was a lesson learned.

Science Fiction Spaceships

The History of Space Exploration

Model Automobilia

Figures: People, Creatures and Dinosaurs

Model Aviation