This Old Starship Kit


 
    Reworking gave me the opportunity to further improve the accuracy of the model. More detail was added to the secondary hull using Evergreen scribed sheet styrene. This was actually a striped decal the first time around.
BALLS!
 
   Also added were bigger domes for the Rear Engine Caps made from leftover vacuformed warp drive domes. The inset shows the caps before modification. While the domes on the studio model were actually painted opaque white, I liked the way the translucent plastic looked and left them un-painted.
  This time around, I would use an aftermarket decal sheet with the proper markings made by Decalex. The sheet includes all of the numbers and letters in their correct typeface and the Starfleet pennants seen on the secondary hull and warp nacelles. Also on the sheet are the many stripes and shapes noticable on the studio model and even the windows in their correct locations but printed a little too large.
   While many of the Decalex markings were used, some were replaced with markings airbrushed onto decal film. Doing this instead of airbrushing them directly onto the model would help avoid positioning problems. The T-shape and rectangle at right were replaced with the airbrushed markings above them.

   Some of the markings, as before, were photocopied onto decal film. The shapes in the top-left corner were made with dry-transfer striping. The NCC-1701 markings were made as spares after damaging one of the Decalex decals. The blue marking was added to the photo to illustrate scale.

 
    As final additions to the model, the button in the middle of the lower saucer dome (left) was added using a small piece of styrene from my spare parts box. This part was missing from the studio model when I first photographed it and so was missing from this model the first time around.

 A pair of tiny red lights was also added to the Bridge (right). These were simply 3/4 inch long strands of optical fiber which were lit by the bridge bulb with Tamiya Clear Red paint on the inside end.

   Finally, another spare warp dome vacuform was used to put a bigger dome on the bridge.

    Four more light mist coats of Tamiya clear were sprayed on, sanding lightly with 1800 grit sanding film between each coat. As before, the clear coat was thinned with a mix of alcohol and water to prevent any stressing on any of the old paint beneath. Finally a coat of clear mixed with Flat Base was lightly airbrushed on which gave the model a satin finish and went on without any drama.

 

ON TO PAGE 11:


intro
chapter 1
chapter 2
chapter 3
chapter 4
chapter 5
chapter 6
chapter 7
chapter 8
chapter 9
chapter 10

TUTORIALS AND KIT REVIEWS