This tutorial originally appeared on the PC Modeler website
| Back in 1964 (way back),
when the Beatles were achieving a level of fame unsurpassed by any popular
music artist or group either before or since, Revell issued injection molded
figure kits of John, Paul, George and Ringo. Forty-odd years later, these
kits are extremely rare.
Being a Beatle fan, I was, naturally, thrilled when I got the opportunity to restore a kit of George Harrison, the Fab Four's lead guitarist. It belonged to a friend, an even more avid Beatle fan who kept it stored away with the rest of her very large collection of Beatle memorabilia. It was put into storage after her brother, who was twelve years old at the time, had painted and partially assembled it. When I received the kit, I noticed that it was in fairly good condition. The only parts glued together were the head and the guitar. The entire kit, however, except for the arms, was covered with a thick hand-brushed coat of enamel paint. I would have to strip all of that paint off down to the plastic before I could begin assembling it. Another challenge would be my limited experience painting figures - my experience is in fact and fantasy spaceship modeling. I definitely had my work cut out for me! |
| I: STRIPPING THE PAINT
Stripping old, dried enamel paint isn't as tough a job as it seems. I've read that gasoline and brake fluid each work well. I tried Easy-off oven cleaner only because I had a used can in the kitchen cabinet. One thing that I can't emphasize enough is how much care must be taken because oven cleaner and its fumes are really nasty. For safety's sake, all precautions should be taken to keep it from contacting skin, clothes, pets, furniture, food and just about everything else save for the inside of a dirty oven! And good ventilation is a must. A plastic container was placed in a sink well protected with plastic wrap. I found that spraying a part, letting it stand for a half-hour and scrubbing with a toothbrush worked great. The oven cleaner had no effect on the old styrene. Some parts, like the head had so much paint slopped on that they needed the whole process repeated once or twice, but the end result was that all of the paint was removed without damaging the plastic. |
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| Both hands and the head
were masked with Parafilm "M" laboratory film and the shirt collar and
cuffs were sprayed with an equal mix of Flat White and White. Parafilm
is a great masking agent because it clings without sticking, it cuts easily
and it can follow any contour (see Fine Scale Modeler, Feb., 1993: "Parafilm
`M' - the latest word in masking" by David Lennox, p.30). The right arm
was then glued to the right shoulder.
After masking the hands and cuffs, again with Parafilm, the suit was sprayed with Light Gray. After that coat dried, it was re-sprayed from above with a 2:1 mix of Light Gray and White. The buttons and coat trim were hand brushed with gloss and flat black respectively. The boots were sprayed with a 1:1 mix of the two. The cufflinks were painted Chrome Silver. After the boots were glued to the body, Alumilite casting resin was poured into the legs via the neck opening, filling both legs to make the figure sturdier and more bottom heavy. The finished head was then super glued to the body. |
| The guitar was sprayed Black
with White trim along the head neck and body, a Flat Brown fingerboard
and a Gold Leaf pick plate. Parafilm made the masking of sharp borders
easy. (I noticed that it did cling better to glossy surfaces.)
The bridge and control knobs were hand brushed and the strings and frets were dry brushed, all with Chrome Silver. The pick-ups and tailpiece were covered with Bare Metal Foil. Using a Badger 250 mini spray gun and Tamiya Clear, I was able to get a nice glossy finish. The guitar is then located via the hole on the back to the locating pin on George's waist while the left hand cradles the neck. |
| The guitar strap is represented
by molded in detail on George's left shoulder and back, and by a thick,
oddly shaped molded piece which connects the strap shoulder pad to the
bottom of the guitar neck. This piece neither fit well nor looked good.
It was replaced with a 1/8" wide strip of .020" (very thin) sheet styrene
which looked much better, especially where it attached to the shoulder
pad. The other end, when the guitar is in position, realistically curves
up to meet George's "axe" in
the right spot (arrow, right). The entire strap was painted with a 1:1 mix of Red and Hull Red. |
| The display base, which has a raised reproduction of George Harrison's autograph, was sprayed with an equal mix of Light Gray and (gloss) Black. Lightly scraping the autograph with a single edge razor blade revealed the white plastic underneath, bringing out the signature. Attaching George to the base with a #4-40 screw through the left heel finished the model. |
| IV: YEAH, YEAH, YEAH!
When finished, I'd spent eleven hours on George: one hour stripping, five hours building and reworking and five painting. Not only did I learn and use some new techniques, but I now understand why some people get hooked on figure kits! George stands nine inches tall, making the model roughly 1/8 scale. The likeness is actually very good, considering that most 1960s figure kits featured generic faces that came close, but at best only approximated the actual look of the model subjects. This model really does resemble the pre-Hard Day's Night George Harrison. |
The History of Space Exploration
Figures: People, Creatures and Dinosaurs
